Contouring & Highlighting: finding the balance between dewy and too shiny

 

What is a great illuminator to make your skin look dewey and glow without looking too shiny?

There are many different types of illuminators out there and while many work great, it is also important to know how to apply them. The two that I use are bareMinerals READY luminizer (The Love Affair) which is a powder and Stila All Over Shimmer (*3) which is a liquid.

I apply the powder once I have applied my foundation, set it with translucent powder. The chart below shows where you should highlight and contour as well. NOTE: It is important not to overdo this as it will make you look shiny and overdone. Your skin should look slight shaded (when you contour) or highlighted and not obviously done. Blend, blend, blend! I use a brush, similar to this one for both highlighting and contouring, though the size of the highlighting brush is slightly smaller.

Ways to test if you are on the right track: 1) With a mirror and good lighting, turn your face side to side; you should be able to see a hint of glow and no more than that. 2) Take a picture on your phone and review it; this should show you how you will look in the sun or in front of cameras.

The liquid illuminator will be tested the same way but application is slightly different. You can apply it over your foundation, making sure only to this in the appropriate areas (see chart). If you happen to overdo it and do not want to take all of your makeup off, simply go over the areas with a small amount of your foundation. Once this si done, set your entire face with a light layer of translucent powder. You may also use the liquid foundation on your entire face for an all over glow by mixing a small amount of the illuminator with your foundation. Follow this with a light layer of translucent powder.

When you highlight, you will also need to contour to balance out your face. When contouring, you should opt for a color that is two shades darker than your foundation and no more than that.  You can use bronzer, contouring powder, or even eyeshadow (yes, that’s right!). You can also use darker foundation, but I find that powder gives you more control over the application. Using our handy dandy chart again, those would be the areas to contour. Not everyone needs to contour every single area that is shown and some areas might be trickier than others so I recommend at least doing your cheeks and under your chin/throat area. It would be a good idea to consult with an artist (like me) on a one-on-one consultation to figure out what your needs are and teach you personalized applications.

Follow these steps and you will be a glowing goddess, ready to conquer the world! Please share your comments when you try this out; I would love to hear from you!